Meet the Designer: Tura Sugden

Tura Sugden designs romantic jewelry inspired by old-world goldsmithing practices and contemporary silhouettes. She studied and apprenticed in Belgium, Maine, Tennessee, Kansas and California before launching her line, which focuses on one-of-a-kind pieces and small collections.

SHOP THE TURA SUGDEN RESIDENCY

Designer: Tura Sugden

Location: San Francisco, CA

How did you get started making jewelry?

I attended art school to earn a BFA in fine art with a focus on Sculpture, and while I was there I found myself focusing on metals. I loved the jewelry program and I started working for a goldsmith while I was still in school. I was an assistant for 7 years, learning the trade and the business of jewelry making.

Did you always know you wanted to be a designer?

I knew I wanted to be an artist but I didn't know how that would unfold.

How long have you been in the trade?

20 years.

What does your business look like now, versus when you started?

When I started, I thought I would trend more toward art jewelry or larger pieces. I didn't think that I would be making fine jewelry, but once I started I just fell in love with it!

What’s the most challenging part about being a jewelry designer?

The hardest part about being a jewelry designer today is all the other aspects of the job - being in charge of correspondence, bookkeeping, accounting, social media, photography... all while trying to do the best work I can do - it can be overwhelming some days!

What’s your favorite part about being a jewelry designer?

I love hearing customers' stories, and helping them to incorporate special moments and memories into their pieces. Each project is unique, and I get to be a part of an important part of their lives. There is a lot of trust there, and a lot of mutual respect, and I'm really grateful for it.

Who is another jewelry designer that you admire/do you have a mentor in the jewelry industry?

Gabriella Kiss is very inspirational, she seems to follow her own path and I admire that.

Do you have a favorite piece that you have made?

I made a pair of white gold and natural green diamond earrings that will always come to mind when this question comes up. They have a balance and a presence to them that make them stand alone as an object, which I think is so interesting.Do you have a favorite metal or stone that you prefer to work with?

Diamond slices are what I built the collection around originally - their uniqueness and their transparency really speak to me. I love that you can often see the growth of the crystal within them, and what the shape of the raw stone was. They are what I built the Elevated Settings around, and they will always be my favorite stones to work with.

Do trends in the industry affect the way you design a new collection?

They do to an extent, but I don't follow them consciously; I've always had my own style and that thread has been strong in my collection since the beginning.

What’s your favorite piece of jewelry from your own personal collection?

I have a pinky signet ring that was made for me by Castro Smith when my first daughter was born, with a pigeon on the top and California poppies on the sides. Inside it says her birthday and San Francisco.